Michelin-starred chefs pop up at Philippine resort

OVER the past few years, pop-ups have proliferated in the fine dining industry. Such format puts culinarians in front of a new audience, allows them to work with and learn from other chefs and build a following, seemingly without the overhead. “Pop-up” is a catch-all term for a few types of  gastronomic experience, the spectrum of which ranges from the culinary artist being the driving force behind a celebration to the chef being asked by a brand to lend one’s name and talent to an event, sometimes for just one night.

On March 16-19, chefs from some of the world’s Michelin-star kitchens will wow Philippine food aficionados with their signature dishes while globally renowned spirits and wine experts will do bespoke concoctions at the restaurants of Solaire Resort Entertainment City in Parañaque. The culinary and beverage affair dubbed “Gastronomic Indulgence” marks the integrated resort’s 10th anniversary.

“To mark Solaire’s 10 years, we wanted to do something bigger and more ambitious than what we have done in the past. As we close the last decade and enter a new one, it’s only fitting that we commemorate the celebration by giving our guests an irresistible experience that no other property or restaurant in the country has ever done before,” said Bastian Breuer, vice president for food and beverage. “This marks the beginning of more trailblazing events for food and beverage at Solaire.”

Enrico Bartolini

The 44-year-old Italian chef is one of the world’s leading restaurateurs, with a total of nine Michelin stars across all his establishments. His flagship address, Milan, is home to his namesake restaurant located in Mudec Museum and where the cuisine and style for his diners are crafted. Bartolini blends tradition and innovation into a style he calls “Contemporary Classic”. In his dishes, he masterfully combines down-to-earth Italian cuisine with opulence and creativity.

Enrico Bartolini (Credit: Wakapedia)

At Solaire’s Finestra Italian Steakhouse, Bartolini will do a brunch buffet and seven-course dinner while award-winning bar expert Salvatore Calabrese known as “The Maestro” will create “Cocktails with the Maestro” featuring his iconic beverages. Joining him is the first and only Filipino certified master sommelier, Luis de Santos. De Santos’ concoctions such as Breakfast Martini have gained global popularity. He does consultancy services from his regular location, The Donovan Bar in Brown’s Hotel, London.

Bartolini’s “Contemporary Classic” menu features Soft Potato, Egg and Eggs paired with Champagne Brut Reserve, NY; Anchovies, Delta del Po Oyster and Sturia Caviar with Lugana “Reserve Sergio”, 2020; Bottoni filled with Olive Oil and Lime, Octopus, Cacciucco Sauce with Chardonnay “Passobianco”, 2022; Beetroot Risotto with Gorgonzola Cheese Sauce “Evolution” with Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, 2018; Turbot in Green with Brunello di Montalcino “Annata”, 2016; Strawberries, Rhubarb and Saint-Germain with Grappa di Amarone; and Soft Chocolate and Salted Caramel Ice Cream with Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva “Sergio Zenato”, 2009.

Enrico Bartolini’s Bottoni filled with Olive Oil and Lime, Octopus, Cacciuco Sauce (Credit: Travels for Stars)

Tohru Nakamura

The 39-year-old culinary virtuoso opened Tohru in der Schreiberei in Munich in 2020. The restaurant garnered two Michelin stars just three months later. Born to a German mother and Japanese father, Nakamura’s fine dining menus are a creative blend of German ingredients with Japanese techniques and dashes of French flare. Tasting menus consist of 10 courses, each painstakingly detailed and presented with the precision of a surgeon. His unusual flavor pairings are evident in his unique feasts.

Tohru Nakamura (Credit: Rolling Pin)

East meets west at Solaire’s Yakumi as Nakamura creates a brunch buffet and an eight-course dinner. To bring out the deeper flavors of his menu, sake samurai Akihiro Igarashi will curate complementary sake variants from the Kagamiyama Sake Brewery whose heritage dates back to 1875.

“Feast by Tohru and Team” showcases Scallop (black radish, creme crue, shiitake, maitake) paired with Sake Junmai Daiginjo 12; Toro (koshihikari, okoge, shiokoji, wasabi) with Sake Junmai Daiginjo 23; Shimaaji (shiso, sesame, sayote, oyster) with Sake Junmai Ginjo; Wagyu (light grilled tartare, chawanmushi, mizunasu, Sturia caviar, roasted kombu ponzu) with Sake Junmai Daiginjo 45; Kinmedai (yariika, mitsuba pil pil, kangkong, Hokkaido sea urchin) with Sake Junmai Daiginjo 39; Rock Lobster (botanebi, brown miso butter, bamboo shoots, edamame, Perigord truffle) with Sake Junmai Daiginjo “Solaire 10th Anniversary”; Kurobuta (sparerib dim sum, rayu, black garlic, gobo, bignay) with Sake Junmai; and Kinako Flan (mango, myoga, salted caramel, pineapple, yuzu-calamansi sorbet) with Peach Sake Horodoke.

Tohru Nakamura’s Lightly Grilled Tartare of Wagyu with Roasted Kombu and Chawanmushi (Credit: accountingfortasteblog.com)

Alvin Leung

An English-born Hong Kong-Canadian chef and television personality, the 62-year-old Leung holds two Michelin stars at his restaurant Bo Innovation in Hong Kong. Leung serves as one of the judges in “MasterChef Canada” and “Wok Stars” and hosts “The Maverick Chef” and “Wok the World”.

The self-taught culinary artist gave himself the nickname “The Demon Chef” and is known for a style of cooking he calls “X-Treme Chinese”. X-Treme Chinese merges fusion cuisine and molecular gastronomy and means that the food he makes is pushing the limits. One of these dishes is Sex on the Beach, an edible condom made out of konjac and kappa on a beach composed of mushroom. The condom is filled with honey and ham. All of the proceeds from that dish go to charity AIDS Concern.

At Solaire’s Red Lantern, Leung will display his innovative food engineering in an eat-all-you-can dim sum for lunch and an eight-course dinner. To complement his taste sensations, master sommelier Elyse Lambert prepares a highly select list of wines for a fuller dining experience.

“Dinner with the Demon Chef” consists of Shrimp Toast, Lemon Aioli, Shima Aji, Green Sichuan Pepper, Meyer Lemon, Spicy Hokkaido Scallop Sui Mai paired with Champagne Brut Reserve, NV; Spotted Prawn, Daikon Milk, Rice Pin, Dried Shrimp with Sauvignon Blanc, 2021; Pastry-Capped Rich Chicken Soup, Morel Mushroom; Philippine Mud Crab Egg White, Aged Chinese Wine with Chardonnay, 2019; Amadai, Bak Choy, Potato, Black Bean with Pinot Noir “Freestone Vineyards”, 2019; Wagyu Beef and Abalone, Black Truffle with Meritage “Cambium”, 2015; Mushroom XO Fried Rice with Zinfandel “Saldo”, NV; and Stem Ginger Sorbet, Pouch Pear in Sake with Scott Street Gin.

Alvin Leung’s Wagyu Beef, Black Truffle, Daikon, Garlic Chive, Truffled Beef Tendon, Aromatic Consomme. (Credit: vervemagazine.in)

Rene Frank

The World’s Best Pastry Chef of 2022 has never been one for convention. At his two Michelin-starred dessert restaurant Coda in Berlin, the 38-year-old German venerates the vegetable and champions home-made chocolate. Working to a “bean to plate” concept, his diner only uses cocoa beans grown under sustainable, fair trade conditions. Frank ensures that Coda’s chocolate is made by hand each day, no tropical products are imported and refined sugar and artificial flavors are not included in the menu.

Rene Frank (Credit: theprochefme.com)

While his flavor combinations might be wild, Frank’s creations are carefully honed. Coda offers five- and seven-course tasting menus, complete with pre-dinner snacks and drinks pairing. At Solaire’s Oasis Garden Cafe, he will show in an eight-course dinner and a brunch buffet at Finestra why desserts are more than just an ending to a meal.  

“Progressive Dessert Dining” comprises of Grapefruit (mascarpone, savoy cabbage, thyme) paired with Quince Brandy, Lavender Eau De Vie, Muscat Verjus; Eggplant (pecan nut, apple balsamic, licorice salt) with Sherry Oloroso, Oolong Tea Si Ji Chun; Raclette Waffle (kimchi yoghurt) with Berliner Weisse “Kennedy”, Aquavit “Dill Anis” Pear Reduction; Frozen Beetroot (cranberry tofu) with Wild Cherry Eau De Vie, Wild Raspberry Brandy, Brennerei Schwarzer Vermouth; Cirone Cheesecake (coffee celery) with Sherry Amontillado, Kuro Mirin 20 Years, Yamanoka Shiso Shochu; Grilled Apple (oats, shallots, sultanas) with Moscatel do Douro 10 Years, Horseradish Eau de Vie, Sloe Brandy; Caviar Popsicle (osietra caviar “jasmin” Sturia) with Riesling Kabinett, 2021, Schloss Vollrads; Nacional Cacao (purple carrot, chicoree, hazelnut) with Junmai Sake “Red Rice”, Sherry Pedro Ximenez, Cherry Eau De Vie Basler Langstieler.

Rui Silvestre

He has created a Michelin star-worthy style centered on balance, fresh seafood, childhood memories, Portuguese flavors and Indian and African influences. His refreshing menus go beyond the typical European fine dining experience which makes his Vistas restaurant in Algarve one of Portugal’s gems.

At Solaire’s Waterside, the 37-year-old Silvestre will make foodies relish his French techniques and preference for unorthodox tastes in a brunch buffet and seven-course dinner. He keeps the authenticity of flavors, combining the finest local ingredients with his way of cooking to produce a gastronomic celebration unique to Portugal. Enhancing his dishes is a handpicked wine collection by Eanglebert Guina, one of the Philippines’ best sommeliers who represented the country in the 2018 World Best Sommelier competition.

Rui Silvestre (Credit: vistaruisilvestre.com)

“Seafood Galore” highlights Bluefin Toro, Oyster, Cauliflower, Wasabi paired with Pinot Blanc “Mise du Printemps”, 2021; Amberjack, Pear, Shiso with Comte Tolosan, 2018; Sea Urchin, Oscietra Caviar, Onions with La Revelia, 2019; Carabineiro, Tapioca, Curry with Chambolle Musigny, 2018; Lobster, Masala, Black Garlic, Celery Root with Hermitage “Les Miaux”, 2009; Skate, Smoked Eel, Capers with Rioja Reserva, 2010; and Lassi, Pistachio, Saffron with Muscat “Gessami”, 2021.

Other notable personalities join Solaire’s food and wine celebration. Dalmore’s master distiller Gregg Glass, and whisky expert and “The Whisky Bible” author Jim Murray will share the art surrounding the distilled spirit. International bar masters Antonio Lai (Hong Kong’s top mixologist) and Edriane Lim of The Bar at 15 Stamford and Gerald Damasco (the Philippines’ representative to The Best Sommelier of Asia & Oceania 2018) will also be featured.  

The four-day “Gastronomic Indulgence” proffers a unique glimpse into the world of haute cuisine and provides an interesting portrait of high-profile guest chefs and beverage virtuosos, their culinary philosophy and the food culture of their country. Gourmands will have plenty of eating and drinking opportunities to look forward to in this epicurean banquet of exquisitely prepared food accompanied by fine wines.

For more information, email [email protected]; follow Facebook/SolaireResort, Instagram/solaireresort and Twitter@solairesort.